Colouring lesson 4

• Hairdressing
• Higher Education (non-degree)

Colouring lesson 4

Lesson objectives:

• Be able to describe the different types of lighteners used to pre-lighten the hair.
• Explain the influencing factors involved when colouring hair
• Describe the different types of application methods used and be benefits of each one.
•  Explain the purpose of aftercare and give examples of aftercare you should give to a client.

Which type of melanin is predominant in dark hair?

1. Pheomelanin
2. Red melanin
3. Eumelanin
4. Blue melanin

What is the cortex of the hair responsible for?

1. Containing natural and artificial color pigments
2. Protecting the hair cuticle
3. Producing melanin
4. Determining the hair's texture

Which type of hair colour contains large colour molecules that sit on the outside of the cuticle?

1. Quasi-permanent colour
2. Temporary colour
3. Permanent colour
4. Semi-permanent colour

Which type of color provides 100% coverage on white hair?

1. Semi-permanent color
2. Permanent color
3. High-lift Tint
4. Quasi-permanent color

Which type of hair colour contains small and medium-sized colour molecules?

1. Temporary colour
2. Semi-permanent colour
3. Permanent colour
4. Quasi-permanent colour

Which type of color lasts 6-8 shampoos?

1. Semi-permanent color
2. Permanent color
3. Toners
4. Quasi-permanent color

What does the first number or letter represent in a hair color with two tones?

1. The stronger tone
2. The minor tone
3. The brand of the hair color
4. The depth of the hair color

Which color is used to neutralize a green tone in hair?

1. Red
2. Yellow
3. Blue
4. Violet

Which type of hair pigment is responsible for dark hair?

1. Eumelanin
2. Melanin
3. Pheomelanin
4. Blond melanin

Case study 1

• 2 levels of lift needed.
• 9%/30 vol needed.

Case study 2

• Permanent colour as long as the hair is virgin.
• 6% / 20 vol needed for 1 level of lift.
• If the hair is coloured, you would need to pre-lighten.

Case study 3

• The ends need to be re coloured if the condition allows – then use a ashy toner on the hair with a low level peroxide.
• If the condition wont allow – the client needs to be taken down to the base of an 8 or lower and use an ashy quasi colour.

 

This client has just had all her hair lightened. Her roots are a base of a 10 and the mid-lengths are an 8. She wants to be more of an ashy blonde. What would you do?

What type of lighteners do we use?

Different types of lighteners

Powder lighteners:

Gel lighteners:

Powder lightener

• Can be blue or white powder
• Mostly used for highlighting and off-scalp techniques.
• Can sometimes be used for on-scalp techniques depending on MFI.
• Some have neutralising tones meaning you can remove golden and warm tones while lifting.

Gel lighteners

•  Normally used for scalp bleach.
• Thicker type of lightener.
• Contains a booster or activator which is pre-mixed to give maximum lift.
• Varies depending on MFI. All will have different application methods and development time.

What are some influencing factors when colouring hair?

Influencing factors

• Hair classification,
  
• Hair condition
• Hair porosity
• Elasticity
• Density
• Texture
• Hair growth patterns
• Exciting hair colour
• Percentage of white hair
• Hair length
• Skin tone

Hair classifications

T1 – 

• Very soft, shiny and sometimes oily.
• Oily hair will need to be pre-shampooed prior to the colour application to ensure there are no barriers to the colour.
• Normally has tightly compact cuticle meaning it can be resistant to colouring. Might require pre-softening.
• Highlighting and lowlighting can help to add texture.

T2

• Tends to be frizzy. 
• Coarse wavy hair can be resistant. 
• If there is also white hair present, it might need pre softening to ensure even depth and tone coverage of white hair.

T3

• Has a combination of curls which can affect the condition. 
• You would need to choose suitable products for suit the hairs condition.
• Can be thick and abundant, so more product would be required.
• Can be difficult to get foils close to the root without straightening the hair beforehand.
• Not always suitable to use lightening products.

T4

• Normally very fragile and can tangle easily.
• It is important to use pH-balancing products on curly hair to help keep the cuticle closed and maintain the natural pH.
• You may need to shampoo the hair and style smooth to avoid causing discomfort to the client.

Hair characteristics

Hair condition

• If the hair condition is very strong and resistant, pre-softening may be required if covering white hair or a strong developer if using a quasi colour.
  
• If the hair is in poor/weak condition, recommend that non-chemical colour should be used.

What is the effect does porous hair have when carrying out a lightening service?

1. Porous hair has no effect on lightening products.
2. Porous hair may cause damage with lightening products.
3. Porous hair makes lightening products unnecessary.
4. Porous hair allows for better lightening results.

Hair porosity

• Porous hair will restrict your choices of products, as lightening products may cause damage.
  
• Resistant, non-porous hair may require longer development times for permanent hair colouring products.
  
• Uneven porosity may result in an uneven colour, so you need to consider what products and services will be suitable.
  

Hair elasticity

• If the hair is weak in elasticity then you will need to avoid using chemicals on the hair.
  
• Semi permanent products will add shine to the hair.
  
• Conditioning treatments prior to the service will help prepare the hair for future services.
  

What does hair density determine in hair services?

1. The color result, the client's requirements, and the section size
2. The techniques used, product required, and service time

Hair density

• Your client’s hair density will determine which techniques you use, how much product is required and how long the service may take to complete.
  
• You may need to adapt the size of your sections or weaves
  
• Fine weaves in dense hair result in a subtle colour, thick weaves on finer hair could create a heavily highlighted effect, which may not suit the client’s requirements.
  

Hair texture

• Texture is the fineness or thickness of each strand of hair.
  
• A client may have fine hair but a lot of it, or course hair that is sparse in texture.
  
• The texture of the hair may affect the amount of product required, the time the service takes to complete and the size of your sections when colouring hair

What should you do when dealing with a strong cow's lick or widows peak?

1. Fight against it
2. Cut it off
3. Ignore it
4. Adapt your sectioning

Hair growth pattern

• Not many hair growth patterns affect the colouring service but you should be working with any strong hair movement, rather than trying to fight it.
  
• You should work with any natural partings in the hair and find how the client likes to their hair.
  
• Sometimes you will need to adapt your sectioning when dealing with a strong cow’s lick or widows peak.

Existing hair colour

• Is the target shade lighter, darker or the same depth as the existing shade?
  
• Is the colour of the hair natural or artificial?
  
• How the previous colour faded?
  
• How many shades of lift are required to achieve the target shade?
  
• Can you use a tint to achieve the required lift or do you need to use a lightening product?

Percentage of white hair

• Is the white hair strong and resistant?
  
• Do you need to pre-soften the hair?
  
• If your client wants a semi-permanent colour, will it blend enough white hair?
  
• If your client wants a quasi-permanent colour, will it cover enough white hair?
  
• Does your client want a permanent colour to cover 100 per cent white hair?

Hair length

• Short hair – easier to manage, but you still need to work methodically.
  
• Long hair – needs to be sectioned and clipped away to work with manageable sections.
  
• Longer and thicker hair needs more product and more time.

Which signs should you look for to identify if a hair color complements a person's skin tone?

1. Warm undertones
2. Hair texture
3. Cool undertones
4. Eye color

Skin tone

• You need to make sure your client’s chosen hair colour will complement their skin tone. To help identify this you should be looking for these signs:

Influencing factors

• Hair classification,
  
• Hair characteristics
  
• Temperature
  
• Existing colour
  
• Percentage of white hair
  
• Test results
  
• Peroxide strengths
  
• Hair length
  
• Skin tone
  
• Time interval from last chemical service
  
• Recent addition or removal of hair extensions

What application methods do we use?

Application methods

• Full head using quasi
• Regrowth using permanent 
• Full head application of permanent
• Woven/sliced highlights or lowlights 
• Balayage

What aftercare should you give your client?

Aftercare

• Timed intervals in between services
• Future products and services
• How to maintain their look.

What pH level should we restore the hair to when coloring?

1. pH 7
2. pH 2
3. pH 10
4. pH 4.5-5.5

What should be done if the hair is weak in elasticity?

1. Pre-soften the hair
2. Apply conditioning treatments
3. Avoid using chemicals on the hair
4. Use semi-permanent products

Why should we restore the hair pH after coloring?

1. To make the hair color last longer
2. To maintain the health and integrity of the hair
3. To increase the shine of the hair
4. To prevent hair breakage

What type of lightener is normally used for scalp bleach?

1. White powder lightener
2. Powder lightener
3. Gel lightener
4. Blue powder lightener

What type of lightener is mostly used for highlighting and off-scalp techniques?

1. Blue powder lightener
2. Gel lightener
3. White powder lightener
4. Powder lightener

Ask 1 question about something you haven't quite understood yet.

The students indicate here (in question form) with which part of the material they still have difficulty. For the teacher, this not only provides insight into the extent to which the students understand/master the material, but also a good starting point for the next lesson.